TMB Stage 11: Refuge de la Flégère to Les Houches via Le Brévent

Le Brévent (2,525 m) is not the highest point on the Tour du Mont-Blanc. It is not the most remote or the most isolated. But it is the summit that gives you the clearest view of everything you have just walked. The full massif rolls out across the valley, from the Aiguilles de Chamonix to the Dôme du Goûter, with Mont-Blanc right in the centre. After ten days of walking around this mountain, you finally stand face to face with it, barely 8 km away as the crow flies. For those of us who have travelled from the Southern Hemisphere to be here, the scale of European alpine terrain never stops being remarkable, and this viewpoint drives the point home.

Mountain hiking guides, we consider this last stage the final real climb of the circuit. The ascent is direct and steep, the panorama more than justifies the effort, and the descent to Les Houches (1,500 m of elevation loss, the longest on the TMB) puts your knees through one last serious test. In this article, we cover the full route, the stop at Refuge de Bellachat, options for cutting the day short, and a few stories about the first travellers who stumbled upon Chamonix.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 15.5 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 659 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 1540 m

Stage 11 at a Glance

The defining moment: reaching the summit of Le Brévent. Mont-Blanc fills the skyline, 8 km away as the crow flies. Below, the Chamonix valley traces a green ribbon 1,500 m lower. This is where Dr. Michel-Gabriel Paccard, in the 18th century, observed Mont-Blanc through a telescope to plan the route for the first ascent.

From La Flégère to Planpraz: Continuing the Grand Balcon Sud

You leave the Refuge de la Flégère (1,877 m) heading south-west, away from the trail you took the previous day from Trè-le-Champ. The path crosses the Charlanon alpage on the hillside, with the Mont-Blanc massif in constant view on your left. You pass below the slopes of l'Index (2,595 m), then the route winds around several gullies, including the Combe de la Parsa, switching between larch woodland, rock slabs, and open pasture.

About 1h30 after leaving the refuge, you reach Planpraz (2,000 m), the mid-station of the Le Brévent cable car. There is a refreshment stand and toilets. This is a decision point: you can ride the cable car down to Chamonix (if the weather has turned or fatigue has set in), or keep hiking towards the summit of Le Brévent.

Along here you will cross paths with day hikers who came up from Chamonix by cable car, far more numerous than on the previous TMB sections. After the relative solitude of the Swiss Val Ferret or the pastures of Alp Bovine, the contrast is hard to miss.

Le Brévent (2,525 m)

The climb from Planpraz to Le Brévent takes roughly 1h15. The trail goes through the Col du Brévent (2,368 m), marked by a cairn, then crosses a rocky spur equipped with two metal ladders (8 and 9 rungs) before reaching the summit (2,525 m). The passage is exposed but well secured. In rain or after a thunderstorm, the rungs and surrounding rock are slippery: take extra care, and consider the cable car as an alternative. You can also take the upper section of the cable car to go straight to the summit from Planpraz.

From the top, the panorama extends 360°. To the east, the entire Mont-Blanc range is laid out: the Aiguille du Midi (3,842 m), Mont-Blanc du Tacul (4,248 m), Mont Maudit (4,465 m), Mont-Blanc (4,809 m), Dôme du Goûter (4,304 m), and Aiguille de Bionnassay (4,052 m). Below, Chamonix looks miniature. To the west, you can see the Aiguilles Rouges massif, Lac Blanc (where some hikers passed the day before), and on exceptionally clear days, the Jura far in the distance.

It was from Le Brévent that Dr. Michel-Gabriel Paccard studied Mont-Blanc to find a route to the top. On 8 August 1786, together with Jacques Balmat, he completed the first ascent. Chamonix was transformed. The impetus had come from Genevan naturalist Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, who had been observing the mountain since 1760 and offered a reward for anyone who could find a way up. Balmat claimed credit for the ascent for many years. It took the research of historian T. Graham Brown, in the 20th century, to restore Paccard to his rightful place as the first ascensionist.

The Descent to Bellachat (2,152 m)

From the summit of Le Brévent, the trail descends first across a rocky slope, then into alpine meadow. In 1h to 1h15, you reach the Refuge de Bellachat (2,152 m), perched on a grassy shelf with a plunging view over the Chamonix valley and the Glacier des Bossons directly across.

Refuge de Bellachat is the final place to stop before the long descent. The guardian serves simple, generous food. It is a perfect spot for lunch, or for one last night at altitude if you want to split the stage in two.

The Big Descent: Bellachat to Les Houches

This is the hardest part of the day. From Bellachat (2,152 m) to Les Houches (977 m), roughly 1,200 m of elevation loss remain over 7 km. Trekking poles are not optional.

The trail leaves the refuge across a steep grassy slope, drops 300 m in tight switchbacks, then enters the Réserve naturelle de Carlaveyron around 1,800 m. The reserve was established in 1991 to protect 598 hectares of old-growth forest and wetlands. Its existence was not inevitable: a proposal to extend the ski lifts towards the Montagne de Carlaveyron had been considered, before being dropped in favour of the reserve.

The descent continues through forest (larches, then spruce) to a junction for the Parc animalier de Merlet (1,500 m), where ibex, chamois, and marmots live in semi-freedom with Mont-Blanc as the backdrop. The park is visible from the trail; a visit adds about 1h to your day. Beyond Merlet, the trail joins a wider forest track. You reach the P3 car park (1,370 m), the first road access since the refuge.

The last 400 m of descent wind through forest to the platform of the Christ-Roi statue (1,200 m), erected in 1934 at the initiative of Abbé Claude-Marie Delassiat, parish priest of Les Houches. The Arve valley opens up below. The final stretch crosses the hamlet of Le Coupeau before reaching Les Houches train station (980 m). The TMB is complete.

When Chamonix Was "Discovered"

Walking into Les Houches, you are retracing steps that earlier explorers took. In June 1741, two young English aristocrats, William Windham and Richard Pococke, set out from Geneva with an armed escort to explore the Chamonix valley. At that time, the place was a cul-de-sac at the end of a mule track, virtually unknown to the wider world. Windham described the "Mer de Glace" (he invented the name) and the Chamonix aiguilles in a letter that caused a sensation in London. Decades later, the writer and canon Marc-Théodore Bourrit, based in Geneva, published between 1773 and 1801 several editions describing the glaciers of Chamonix, with engravings that circulated widely in European scientific and literary circles. Alpine tourism was born, and Chamonix would become its capital.

Variant: the Aiguillettes du Brévent and Les Houches

For those who do not want the TMB to finish too soon, a lesser-known variant extends the final day. From Refuge de Bellachat, instead of descending straight to Les Houches, the trail follows the ridge westward over the Aiguillette du Brévent (2,310 m) and the Pointe de Lapaz (2,313 m), then continues to the Aiguillette des Houches before descending via the Chalets de Chailloux (1,923 m) and Plan de la Cry (1,440 m). Allow 5 to 6h from Bellachat, with +200 m and -1,400 m. It is a ridge route with continuous views of the Mont-Blanc range, well away from the crowded trails. It reaches Les Houches from the western side, less steep than the direct descent.

Options for Shortening the Stage

Stage 11 is long (6h30 to 8h) and the descent is punishing. Several options let you adapt:

• La Flégère cable car: ride down from La Flégère to Les Praz-de-Chamonix, then catch the bus to Les Houches (removes the whole stage, useful in poor weather).
• Le Brévent cable car: ride up to Planpraz or Le Brévent, then hike down to Bellachat and Les Houches (saves 600 m of elevation gain).
• Night at Bellachat: split the stage in two. La Flégère to Bellachat (3-4h), then Bellachat to Les Houches the next morning (2h30-3h).

Accommodation in Les Houches and Nearby

• Gîtes and hotels in Les Houches (977 m): the village has a solid range of accommodation. After 11 stages, a real bed and a long shower feel like the height of civilisation.
• Refuge de Bellachat (2,152 m): for those who want to split the stage or enjoy one last sunset at altitude. Booking recommended (tel: 04 50 53 43 23).
• Chamonix: 8 km from Les Houches, accessible by bus or train (Mont-Blanc Express). More choice for accommodation and dining.

Practical Tips

Water and Supplies

Water is available at Refuge de la Flégère at the start, at the Planpraz refreshment stand, at Refuge de Bellachat, and in Les Houches at the finish. The descent from Bellachat to Les Houches is long without a water source: carry at least 1.5 litres from Bellachat in summer.

Weather and Timing

The summit of Le Brévent is exposed to wind and thunderstorms. If the forecast is uncertain, aim to reach the top early (summer storms typically build in early afternoon). The descent faces south-west: in high summer, the heat in the forest can be fierce in the afternoon. Leaving La Flégère before 7:30 is recommended.

Difficulty

The climb to Le Brévent is sustained but technically straightforward. The descent is the real challenge: 1,860 m of elevation loss puts serious pressure on your quads and joints. Trekking poles are essential. If your knees are giving you grief, consider the cable car for at least part of the way down.

Getting Back to Your Starting Point

From Les Houches train station, the Mont-Blanc Express connects to Chamonix (10 min) and Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet (15 min), where TGV services run to Paris, Lyon, and Geneva. The Tramway du Mont-Blanc, departing from Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet and climbing to the Nid d'Aigle, also stops at the Col de Voza station (the one you passed on Stage 1). Local buses fill the gaps. If your car is parked at Les Houches, the loop is closed. If you left it in Chamonix or Saint-Gervais, the train brings you back in minutes. For those heading to Geneva airport to catch a long-haul flight home, the TGV connection from Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet is straightforward.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 11

Can I skip the climb to Le Brévent?

Yes, by taking the cable car from Planpraz. But the summit of Le Brévent is often cited as the finest viewpoint on the entire TMB. Missing it means finishing the trek without the summit panorama. If your legs are willing, hike up.

Is the 1,860 m descent really that tough?

It is the longest descent on the TMB. On your knees and joints, it is demanding, particularly after ten days of hiking. Trekking poles, a steady pace, and regular breaks make it manageable. The forest provides shade, which helps in summer.

Can you combine Stages 10 and 11?

It is doable for very fit hikers. Linking Trè-le-Champ, La Flégère, Le Brévent, and Les Houches amounts to roughly 23 km with 1,750 m of gain and 2,200 m of loss. Seven-day itineraries sometimes do it. In our TMB in 7 days, we organise this section with accumulated fatigue in mind.

What to do after the TMB?

Les Houches and Chamonix have everything you need to recover: restaurants, brewpubs, outdoor shops, and the Saint-Gervais thermal baths are a 20-minute train ride away. If you are heading home by public transport, Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet station connects to the TGV network and Geneva airport.

The Loop Is Complete

The Tour du Mont-Blanc ends in Les Houches, where it started. You put down the pack, look up at the mountain one last time, and know you have walked the full circle. Three countries, eleven stages, 170 km, roughly ten passes.

Stage 1 of the TMB, the one that took you out of Les Houches eleven days ago (or seven, or five), is the start of another circuit if the desire brings you back. To place this final stage in context, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc article details all 11 stages, the variants, and the full logistics. And if you want to experience the TMB with a guide who knows every pass, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood condenses the best of the circuit into one week.

You have just arrived from Stage 10, Trè-le-Champ to Refuge de la Flégère along the Grand Balcon Sud.

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