TMB Stage 5: From Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti

From the terrace of the Refuge Bonatti, the Grandes Jorasses take up the entire horizon. Not as some soft backdrop a long way off, but right there, square in front of you, the 1,200-metre north face staring you down while you sit with your morning coffee. It is one of the most jaw-dropping views on the entire Tour du Mont-Blanc, and it is your prize for finishing this fifth stage.

I have a real attachment to this bit of trail. It was here, during a loop through the Val d'Aoste, that I first clapped eyes on Mont Blanc and the Grandes Jorasses. Courmayeur sits at 1,224 metres. The Refuge Bonatti sits at 2,026 metres. Over 12.5 kilometres, the trail climbs steadily with barely any descent, gaining altitude through the Italian Val Ferret, a pastoral valley hemmed in by the spires and glaciers of the massif's southern flank. This is a calm, uphill stage, well clear of the Chamonix crowds, where the TMB finds something rawer and more remote. For those of you who have travelled halfway around the world to be here, this is the kind of stage that makes the long haul worthwhile.

Two options are on the table: the classic route via the Refuge Bertone and the hamlet of Armina, through forest and along a balcony trail, or the variant along the Mont de la Saxe ridge to the Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m), more demanding and drop-dead gorgeous. This article covers both, along with terrain data, accommodation, and the story of the extraordinary alpinist whose name sits above the door of the refuge at the end of the day.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 11.2 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 944 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 176 m

Stage 5 at a Glance

A note on staging: in 7-day itineraries, the Courmayeur-to-Refuge Bonatti section is sometimes treated as a half-day that some planners merge with the start of Stage 6 (Grand Col Ferret). In the classic 11-stage breakdown, it stands as a full stage, short but physically sustained thanks to the continuous climb.

Leaving Courmayeur: The Climb Toward Villair

You leave Courmayeur heading for the hamlets of Villair-Dessous and Villair-Dessus, perched on the right side of the valley. The Valdostan architecture is hard to miss: grey stone houses, stone-slab roofs, narrow windows. The steep laneways soon open into a forest trail climbing toward the Refuge Bertone.

Larch forest sets the scene for the first section of the stage. The trail gains altitude in steady switchbacks, never getting properly steep. It is a cruisy warm-up climb, letting you shake off Courmayeur and get the legs moving for what comes next.

Refuge Giorgio Bertone (1,989 m): The First Lookout

After about 2h30 to 3 hours of climbing, the Refuge Bertone delivers a panorama that stops you mid-sentence. An orientation table on the terrace faces the Mont Blanc massif, and it barely manages to label everything in view: the Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m), the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4,748 m), the pillars of the south face. This is the first real lookout on the Italian side after the long descent through Val Veni.

The refuge serves drinks and snacks, making it a solid refuelling stop before pushing on. It is also the point where the trail splits: the classic route continues along the balcony toward Refuge Bonatti via Armina, while the Mont de la Saxe variant heads up to the ridge.

The Classic Route via Armina

From Bertone, the standard route follows the eastern flank of the Val Ferret along a balcony trail, through high pastures and scattered bush. You pass the alpages of Sécheron (1,924 m) before reaching the Refuge Bonatti. The terrain is varied, the elevation gain moderate, and the views down the valley are constant. It is a relaxed, enjoyable segment with no technical difficulty, best savoured at an easy pace.

Refuge Walter Bonatti (2,026 m)

The Refuge Bonatti is not your average mountain hut. Its position, on a balcony above the Val Ferret, facing the north wall of the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du Géant (4,013 m), makes it one of the most spectacular locations on the entire circuit. The north-facing terrace gives a direct view of the Pointe Walker, the Pointe Whymper, and the Pointe Croz, the three principal summits of the Jorasses, less than 4 kilometres away as the crow flies.

The refuge was built in 1998 and bears the name of Walter Bonatti, an exceptional alpine guide born in Bergamo in 1930. The choice is no accident: the Val Ferret and the southern flanks of Mont Blanc are deeply connected to this man's story.

Walter Bonatti (1930-2011): A Life Above the Vertical

At 19, Walter Bonatti tackled the north faces of the Grandes Jorasses and the Piz Badile. In 1955, at 25, he completed a solo ascent of the south-west pillar of the Dru (3,730 m), a six-day solo route on vertical granite that wrote his name into mountaineering history.

In 1961, a tragedy unfolded just above the Val Veni that you crossed during Stage 4. Two roped teams became trapped by a storm on the central pillar of the Frêney: one Italian, led by Bonatti, the other French, led by Pierre Mazeaud. The storm raged for days. Four climbers died (Andrea Oggioni, Pierre Kohlman, Robert Guillaume, and Antoine Vieille). Bonatti and the survivors dragged themselves to the Refuge Gamba. What he later wrote about those days in his memoirs remains one of the most gut-wrenching accounts in alpine literature.

In 1965, he finished with one last extraordinary climb: the first winter solo ascent of the north face of the Matterhorn. He then walked away from extreme alpinism, turning to photojournalism and exploration across five continents. He died in 2011, at 81. The refuge bearing his name above the Val Ferret is a fitting tribute.

The Gervasutti Bivouac: The Most Improbable Shelter in the Massif

For the curious hiker, the Gervasutti Bivouac is worth a look. This metal capsule with 12 bunks, installed in 2011 at 2,835 metres on a rocky islet amid the Frébouze Glacier, at the foot of the east face of the Grandes Jorasses, looks like something out of a science fiction film. It is named after Giusto Gervasutti, a climber of the 1930s and 1940s, who in August 1942, with Giuseppe Gagliardone, made the first ascent of the east face of the Grandes Jorasses, a 750-metre route graded Extremely Difficult. In 1946, while trying to free a rappel rope on Mont Blanc du Tacul, on the pillar that now bears his name, he fell and was killed. The bivouac is not on the classic TMB route, but its metallic shape is visible from certain spots in the valley.

Variant: The Mont de la Saxe Ridge to the Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m)

The Mont de la Saxe variant leaves the main trail above the Refuge Bertone and climbs onto the ridge overlooking the Val Ferret, topping out at 2,584 metres. The panorama up there is one of the standout moments on the Italian side: from Mont Blanc de Courmayeur to the Grandes Jorasses, past the Dent du Géant and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, the chain stretches across 180 degrees without a break. It is the bushwalker's ultimate option: demanding, but beautiful enough to leave you speechless.

The variant adds roughly 600 metres of additional elevation gain and about 2 hours of hiking. It is recommended under three conditions: clear weather with good visibility, fresh legs at the start from Courmayeur, and no snow on the ridge (before mid-July, check conditions). In fog or bad weather, stick with the classic forest route.

This is the variant we systematically choose with our groups when conditions allow. The view of the Grandes Jorasses from the ridge, at that distance and altitude, has a clarity that no photograph quite captures.

A secondary viewpoint along this variant is worth noting: the Tête d'Entre-Deux-Sauts (2,729 m), reached by a faint side trail, offers a plunging view into the glacial basin of Frébouze and the walls of the Jorasses in all their verticality.

Accommodation at the Finish

The Refuge Walter Bonatti (2,026 m) is the top accommodation for this stage. Staffed from mid-June to mid-September, it offers dormitories and a few private rooms with dinner and breakfast included. The vibe is classic Italian mountain refuge: well-cooked food, shared tables, and a terrace you will not forget in a hurry.

Booking is essential in July and August. The refuge fills up fast. Reserve through rifugiobonatti.it at least two weeks ahead in peak season, and longer for weekends.

The Refuge Giorgio Bertone (1,989 m) is an alternative for those who prefer to break the stage in two. You sleep at the halfway point and reach the Bonatti the following morning. Less dramatic as a finish, but easier on the body if the legs are cooked.

Practical Tips

Water and Supplies

Water is available at the start (Courmayeur), at the Refuge Bertone, and at the finish. Between Bertone and Bonatti, water sources are scarce in peak season. Fill up with a litre at Bertone. For meals, leave Courmayeur with a decent breakfast in you and plan dinner at the Refuge Bonatti.

Weather

The upper part of the stage, above 1,800 metres, is exposed to afternoon thunderstorms. Getting an early start from Courmayeur (before 8 AM in peak season) lets you reach the refuge by early afternoon, before clouds pile up over the massif.

Poles and Footwear

The classic route presents no technical difficulty. The Mont de la Saxe variant may have lingering snow patches before mid-July and some rocky sections along the ridge. Trekking poles and boots with solid grip are recommended for that option.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 5

How long does it take to get from Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti?

Allow 5 to 6 hours of hiking for the classic route (via Bertone and Armina). With the Mont de la Saxe variant, plan on 7 to 8 hours. The stage is mostly uphill, so it is your lungs doing the work rather than your knees.

Is the Mont de la Saxe variant difficult?

It is longer and higher than the classic route but does not involve any technical ground under normal summer conditions. The main challenge is the extra elevation gain (+600 m) and the length of the exposed ridge. Before mid-July, snow patches can complicate the passage. A decent fitness level is all you need, with no specialist gear required.

Can you stay at Refuge Bonatti without a booking?

Outside July and August, it is sometimes possible to rock up without a reservation, but you are rolling the dice. The refuge is regularly full in peak season, especially on Fridays and Saturdays. Booking online through the official website is strongly recommended.

When does Refuge Bonatti open and close?

The refuge is generally open from mid-June to mid-September, depending on snow conditions. It may open later after a big snow year. Check rifugiobonatti.it before your trip for the exact dates of the current season.

What Comes Next on the TMB

The Refuge Bonatti is the gateway to the Swiss section of the circuit. Stage 6 climbs to the Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m), the highest point on the classic TMB, and drops into Switzerland toward La Fouly and the Swiss Val Ferret.

To see where this stage fits in the bigger picture, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc article covers all 11 stages, variants, best periods, and full logistics. If you want to do the TMB in comfort with hand-picked accommodation and a dedicated mountain guide, our TMB in 7 days with Altimood packs the highlights into one week.

You have just come from Stage 4, from Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur: the night in the Valdostan resort town is behind you. Ahead lies Switzerland and its cheeses.

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