Stage 6 of the TMB: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly via Grand Col Ferret

The Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) is the highest point on the classic Tour du Mont-Blanc. It is also a border crossing, the second on the circuit: one step takes you out of Italy and into Switzerland, trading the sheer granite spires for the soft, rolling pastures of the Valais. That change of landscape, in the space of a few metres, is one of the standout moments on the whole TMB.

This stage squeezes a big day into one: the steady climb from the Italian Val Ferret, the col crossing with views of the Pré-de-Bar Glacier and the Grand Combin, then the long descent through Swiss alpine meadows to La Fouly. It is also the longest stage on the TMB by distance, making it a solid effort despite having no technical difficulty.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 19.1 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 789 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 1217 m

Stage 6 at a Glance

Note: this is the longest stage on the TMB by distance. The cumulative descent (close to 1,400 m) is tough on the knees. Keep your trekking poles out of the pack, especially on the Swiss descent.

The Descent to Arnuva: Leaving the Italian Balcony

You leave Refuge Bonatti at first light, the Grandes Jorasses still draped in shadow. The trail drops towards the floor of the Italian Val Ferret through the Malatra pastures (2,056 m), then reaches the farmstead at Arnuva (1,776 m) in about 1h30. It is a steady, predictable descent through meadows dotted with gentians and rhododendrons.

Along the way, the Pré-de-Bar Glacier comes into view on the eastern flank of the valley. This glacier, flowing down from Mont Dolent (3,823 m), has retreated considerably in recent decades. Its terminus, once level with the trail, has pulled well back above. It is a sobering, visible reminder of the glacial retreat underway across the Alps.

Mont Dolent deserves a mention of its own: it is the peak where the borders of France, Italy, and Switzerland all converge. A geographic tripoint at 3,823 m, invisible from the trail but symbolically present throughout this transitional stage between two countries.

Refuge Elena (2,062 m): Last Stop Before the Col

From Arnuva, the trail climbs to Refuge Elena (2,062 m), the last Italian outpost. Allow about an hour of steady climbing. The refuge has drinks and food supplies. It is the place to fill your bottles and sort out your layers before the final push.

Above the refuge, the terrain turns increasingly mineral. Pastures give way to scree and steepening grassy slopes. The last 400 metres of elevation gain to the col are the most sustained section of the day. Early in the season (before mid-July), snowfields may persist on the upper slopes. Nothing technical, but boots with decent grip are well worth having.

Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m): The Tipping Point

The col is wide, grassy, and windy. You reach it after a bit over an hour of climbing from Refuge Elena. The payoff is twofold.

On the Italian side, behind you: the entire Val Ferret drops away below, framed by the spires of the massif. You can pick out the Pré-de-Bar Glacier, Refuge Bonatti in its meadow, and further away the Col de la Seigne where you entered Italy two days earlier. The whole Italian chapter of the TMB is laid out in that backward view.

On the Swiss side, ahead: the landscape transforms. The contours soften, the colours shift to deeper greens, the slopes become rounded. The Grand Combin (4,314 m), the Valais heavyweight, dominates the north-eastern skyline. You move from Italian alpine drama to Swiss serenity. It is a shift that words do not quite capture and every walker experiences differently.

The col is also the highest point on the classic TMB (the Col des Fours and Fenêtre d'Arpette variants climb higher, but they sit outside the standard route).

The Swiss Descent: Pastures, Raccards and the Swiss Val Ferret

The Swiss-side descent is long (about 3 hours to La Fouly) but never tedious. The trail first crosses the La Peule alp (2,090 m), where a mountain chalet sometimes serves drinks and local cheese in season.

Heading down towards the village of Ferret (1,700 m), you enter a landscape unlike anything you have encountered since the start of the TMB. The raccards appear alongside the trail: small granaries of darkened wood, raised on stilts with flat stone slabs topping each pillar, originally built to keep grain and seeds safe from rodents. This is classic Valaisan architecture, found right across the canton from the French-speaking Entremont valleys to the German-speaking Upper Valais. Simple, handsome, and practical, they dot the Swiss Val Ferret with their dark outlines.

Arriving at La Fouly (1,593 m)

La Fouly is a small mountain village, a cross-country ski resort in winter and a TMB waypoint in summer. After 20 kilometres of walking, rolling into this quiet hamlet is a real relief. There is a small shop, restaurants, accommodation, and a bus stop (La Fouly-Orsières line, 7 departures daily) for anyone wanting to cut things short or rejig their itinerary.

The vibe is a world away from Courmayeur: no designer boutiques, no packed terraces. La Fouly runs at mountain pace, laid-back and unpretentious.

Accommodation at the Finish

The Auberge des Glaciers is the main accommodation in La Fouly for TMB walkers. Dormitories and private rooms, dinner and breakfast included. Friendly atmosphere, garden with views of the surrounding peaks.

Book ahead for July and August. Accommodation capacity in La Fouly is limited. Reserve at least a week in advance during peak season.

Alternatives:

• Gîte de La Fouly: no-fuss lodging, well located
• Camping des Glaciers: for self-sufficient walkers, at the village entrance
• Maya-Joie: B&B rooms at Swiss prices but with solid comfort

Practical Tips for TMB Stage 6

Water and Supplies

Water is available at Refuge Bonatti (start), Refuge Elena, and La Fouly. Between Refuge Elena and La Peule (about 2 hours), there is no reliable water source. Fill a litre at Refuge Elena before tackling the col. The La Peule chalet sometimes has supplies, but it is not a certainty every day.

Weather and Timing

The Grand Col Ferret is exposed to wind and rapid weather swings. Getting away from Refuge Bonatti early (before 7:30 AM) lets you cross the col by late morning, ahead of the afternoon thunderstorms that are common in summer. In thick fog, trail markers are adequate but progress slows: the col is wide and the path less distinct than in the wooded sections.

The final slopes below the col can hold snow until mid-July. No crampons needed, but poles help keep you stable on softened snow.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 6

How long does it take to walk from Refuge Bonatti to La Fouly?

Allow 6h30 to 7h30 of actual walking. The Swiss descent (about 3 hours) takes longer than you might expect from the map, because the trail winds through the pastures at length. With stops, plan on a full day of 8 to 9 hours.

Is the Grand Col Ferret dangerous?

Not under normal summer conditions. The trail is well marked, with no technical section or exposed ground. The only real challenge is the length of the stage and the cumulative descent. Early in the season (before mid-July), snowfields may cover the final Italian slopes, calling for some care but remaining accessible to any experienced walker. On wet days, the trail gets muddy and slippery.

Can you shorten this stage?

Yes, two ways. At the start: sleeping at Refuge Elena instead of Bonatti saves roughly 2 hours in the morning. At the finish: from the village of Ferret (1,700 m), a bus heads down to La Fouly in 10 minutes (7 departures daily). Some 7-day itineraries combine this stage with the beginning of the next (La Fouly to Champex).

Is there a variant via the Petit Col Ferret?

The Petit Col Ferret (2,490 m) is a lesser-known option that passes closer to Mont Dolent. The route is wilder, with gullied slopes and scree. It is rarely taken by TMB walkers because the Grand Col Ferret is more direct and offers a comparable panorama. One for those after solitude who are comfortable on less defined terrain.

What Comes Next on the TMB

La Fouly opens the Swiss section of the circuit. The next stage leads to Champex-Lac via a shorter, easier day, widely considered the rest stage of the TMB. Champex-Lac, nicknamed "the little Swiss Canada," offers a lake, rowing boats, and an alpine botanical garden: the perfect change of pace after the cols.

To see where this stage sits in the full circuit, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc guide covers all 11 stages, variants, and logistics. If you want to walk the TMB in comfort with selected accommodation and a dedicated mountain guide, our TMB in 7 days with Altimood brings together the highlights in a single week.

You have just come from Stage 5, Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti: the panorama of the Grandes Jorasses is still fresh. Ahead lies French-speaking Switzerland and its alpine cheeses.

Continue Reading