TMB Stage 7: La Fouly to Champex-Lac, the day your legs finally get a breather

After the Grand Col Ferret and its 20 kilometres the day before, your legs are well and truly cooked. Stage 7 of the Tour du Mont-Blanc gives them the break they deserve. No major col, moderate elevation gain, and a trail that winds through Swiss Val Ferret villages between forests and alpine pastures. The arrival at Champex-Lac, with its alpine lake, rowing boats and botanical garden, feels like a holiday within a holiday. After travelling all the way from the Southern Hemisphere for this trek, it is nice to have a day where you can simply soak it all in.

Mountain hiking guides, we know this shift in rhythm well. It catches hikers off guard after the solid efforts of the previous days. This "easy" TMB stage is not one to write off, though: it is the one where you slow down, take in the Valaisan mountain architecture, and let your body recover before the Fenetre d'Arpette or Col de Bovine that awaits the next day.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 14.8 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 436 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 561 m

Stage 7 at a Glance

Note: This is the shortest and easiest stage on the TMB. It can be merged with the end of Stage 6 (Grand Col Ferret) in 10-day itineraries. Some hikers in a hurry combine both, but that is a real waste: arriving late at Champex means missing the lake swim and the botanical garden.

The Swiss Val Ferret: Raccards, Villages and Peace and Quiet

You leave La Fouly on a trail following the right bank of the Dranse de Ferret. The river, fed by the glaciers of Mont Dolent and Saleina, provides a constant soundtrack of rushing water through the first part of the stage. The trail passes through a forest of spruce and larch before opening onto the hay meadows around Les Arlaches hamlet.

This is where the raccards start popping up everywhere. These small granaries of darkened wood, perched on stilts and capped with flat stone slabs, were built to store grain safe from rodents. The slabs, placed on each pillar, created an impassable barrier for mice. Practical and good-looking, they have become the architectural emblem of the Valais. You will pass dozens between La Fouly and Champex in all sorts of condition, some converted into residential annexes, others still standing purely on the strength of their original timber framing.

Praz-de-Fort and Les Arlaches: the Villages Along the Way

The trail passes through Les Arlaches, then reaches Praz-de-Fort (1,151 m), the most important village in the valley before Champex. The church, the fountains, the facades of wood blackened by time: this is deep Romandie Switzerland, a place that lives on livestock and timber, well away from mass tourism. A small shop and a cafe let you pause and top up your water bottles.

Praz-de-Fort is also the jumping-off point for alpine routes to the Cabane de Saleina and the Cabane de l'A Neuve, an eagle's nest perched facing Mont Dolent (3,823 m), the summit where three national borders meet. These high-mountain refuges are frequented by mountaineers aiming for the summits of the Aiguille d'Argentiere (3,900 m) or the Chardonnet (3,824 m). From the TMB trail, you can sometimes spot them, tiny bright dots clinging to the rock.

After Praz-de-Fort, the path climbs gently toward the hamlet of Issert (1,055 m), then crosses a stretch of open pastures. The Herens cows, small and full of character, are right at home here. They spar naturally to sort out the herd hierarchy, a spectacle that the Valaisans have turned into a beloved local tradition with their "combats de reines" (queen fights).

The Final Climb to Champex-Lac

After Issert, the trail leaves the valley floor and climbs through forest toward Champex. This is the only real ascent of the day: roughly 400 metres of elevation gain on a switchback trail through coniferous forest. The gradient is steady and well shaded, comfortable even on a warm day.

The surprise comes at the top. After hours of walking through a classic alpine valley, you emerge at a lake. Champex-Lac (1,466 m) appears as a little world of its own: an oval lake, moored rowing boats, hotels with flower-decked shutters, an alpine botanical garden. The nickname "Switzerland's little Canada" makes perfect sense when you wander along the shore lined with conifers and catch the snow-capped peaks as a backdrop. If you are from Australia, this kind of alpine lakeside scenery feels about as far from home as you can get, and that is part of the magic.

Champex-Lac: What to Do on Arrival

Champex-Lac is a low-key resort village, without the buzz of Courmayeur or the spartan feel of high-altitude refuges. It is the perfect spot for a half-day of recovery.

• Swimming in the lake: entirely doable and seriously refreshing (water temperature around 18-20 C in summer). Pedal boats and rowing boats are available for hire on the shore.
• Flore-Alpe Alpine Botanical Garden: established in 1925, it brings together more than 4,000 species of mountain plants from around the world. A short visit (30 minutes does it) but a surprisingly good one, especially if plants are your thing.
• La Breya chairlift: in season, it climbs to 2,188 m and offers a viewpoint over the Grand Combin (4,314 m). Starting point for the Cabane d'Orny (2,811 m), a gathering spot for climbers.

This is also the time to do laundry, dry your gear, and plan ahead. The next stage, toward Trient, presents a crucial choice between the Bovine alpine pasture (bucolic) and the Fenetre d'Arpette (committed). Champex is the right moment to check the forecast and make the call.

Accommodation at Champex-Lac

Champex offers a broader range of lodging than most TMB stages:

• Auberge du Bon Abri: the classic address for TMB hikers. Dormitories and private rooms, hearty meals, friendly vibe.
• Relais d'Arpette (1,627 m): slightly above the village, on the path to the Fenetre d'Arpette. Handy if you plan to take that variant the next day. Dormitories and rooms, forest setting.
• Village hotels: several small hotels with lake views, at Swiss prices (expect 100-150 CHF per night for a double room). Worth budgeting for, given the exchange rate.
• Camping: available on the outskirts of the village for self-supported hikers.

Reservations are essential in July and August. Champex is a popular stop and capacity remains limited. Book at least a week in advance.

Practical Tips

Water and Resupply

Water is easily accessible throughout the stage: fountains at La Fouly, Les Arlaches, Praz-de-Fort and Champex. No dry sections. The shop at Praz-de-Fort allows for light resupply. In Champex, you will find a well-stocked grocery store (note the hours: closed between noon and 2 PM).

Weather and Timing

This stage presents no particular weather concerns: no exposed col, trail mostly in forest or on the valley floor. You can afford a late start (9 AM) and arrive in Champex by early afternoon, leaving time for the lake and the botanical garden.

In rain, the forest trail between Issert and Champex can get muddy. Nothing technical, but trekking poles help with stability on the climbs.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 7

How long does it take to hike from La Fouly to Champex-Lac?

Allow 4h30 to 5h30 of actual hiking time, depending on your pace. With breaks in the village of Praz-de-Fort and the arrival at Champex, plan for 6 to 7 hours total. This is the shortest stage on the TMB, ideal for recovery.

Can you combine Stage 7 with Stage 6 or Stage 8?

Yes, and it is common in 7-day itineraries. Combining Grand Col Ferret plus La Fouly to Champex in a single day is doable for fit hikers, but it adds up to roughly 35 km and 1,500 m of elevation gain. You can also combine Champex to Trient with La Fouly to Champex by starting early and going via Bovine (not via the Fenetre d'Arpette, which is too long). In our TMB in 7 days, we use a Champex-La Fouly transfer to optimise the itinerary.

Is Champex-Lac worth stopping at?

Absolutely. Champex is one of the rare spots on the TMB where you can properly unwind: lake, terraces, botanical garden, shops. After several days of solid hiking, this break does wonders for both body and spirits. Skipping Champex to save time means missing one of the genuine highlights of the Swiss TMB.

What Comes Next on the TMB

From Champex, the next stage leads to Trient with a choice that divides hikers: the Bovine alpine pasture for a gentle option, or the Fenetre d'Arpette (2,665 m) for a proper challenge. It is one of the most debated decisions on the entire TMB.

To see where this stage fits into the full circuit, our complete Tour du Mont-Blanc overview covers all 11 stages, variants and logistics. If you want to experience the TMB in comfort with selected accommodations and a dedicated guide, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood condenses the best of the circuit into one week.

You have just come from Stage 6, Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly via the Grand Col Ferret: the Italy-to-Switzerland crossing is still fresh. Ahead, the final stages lead you progressively back toward Chamonix.

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